Should I be using Peptides on my skin?

Being bombarded with new discoveries and beauty hype every day, it is difficult to know what is really good for your skin. Understanding the structure of the skin and how it is affected by aging and the environment helps us determine what we can do to preserve its youthfulness.

 

Why do you get wrinkles and lax skin? 

Collagen and Elastin make up 80% of your skin. These proteins are what keep your skin plump and flexible. Environmental factors such as the sun, pollution, smoking and eating sugar break down collagen fibres causing wrinkles and sagging skin. To make things worse, your body's ability to produce collagen fibres diminishes with age.

What helps rebuild collagen?

 Antioxidants are important, specially vitamin C and A. Vitamin A is probably the most important ingredient in a good skin care product. Vitamin A not only helps produce collagen, but also repairs the DNA of damaged cells allowing them to produce healthy collagen. Vitamin A also disperses melanin granules (the colour in our skin) so they don't group and form brown spots and pigmentation.

Other functions of vitamin A are the control of oil production; the reduction of acne; the exfoliation of dead skin cells; and because of its correction of the DNA, the prevention and reduction of skin cancers.


Hyaluronic acid is also very important for your skin. It is the filler between collagen fibres. It helps retain water in the skin, improving skin hydration, stimulating the production of collagen, and maintaining the skin's elasticity.

Some beauty treatments such as Skin Needling stimulate the production of collagen by causing micro injuries that prompt the body's natural healing responses. 

What are Peptides?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids.  The proteins in our bodies are made out of long chains of peptides. Peptides send messages to the cells and tell them what to do. 

By applying the right peptides to your skin you can tell the cells to produce more collagen, to protect the collagen, and even to relax the muscles, decreasing wrinkles such as the brow frown (a similar effect to Botox).

Beauty treatments such as IPL/Laser photorejuvenation and Radio Frequency treatments heat up the damaged collagen fibres breaking them down into peptides which signal the skin cells to produce more collagen.

Other things you should do to protect your skin's collagen

The sun is the major culprit when in comes to collagen damage. Always use a broad spectrum sunscreen, zinc or titanium dioxide are best. Remember to reapply every 2 hours, more often if you are swimming because it may rub off with the towel. Also wear a hat, try to keep out of the sun, and wear long sleeves.

The second culprit is eating sugar. Sugar in the bloodstream attaches to proteins creating AGEs (Advanced Glycation End-products). AGEs are harmful molecules that damage collagen and elastin in a domino-like effect. The more sugar you eat the more AGEs your body creates.

Smoking is also very harmful to the skin. The toxins in cigarette smoke damage your collagen causing deep lines around the mouth.

The Dangers of Microdermabrasion and Skin Peels

There is nothing more fashionable now days that a Microdermabrasion treatment or a peel because they are quick, cheap and you can see results right away. They leave our skin looking bright and young reducing fine lines and superficial scarring. Both are non-invasive procedures with little downtime. So what can be wrong with that?

What is Microdermabrasion?

Microdermabrasion is a procedure in which the top most layer of the skin, the 'Stratum Corneum', is buffed away. The Stratum Corneum is made of dead skin cells and it acts as a barrier from the elements, protecting the deeper layers of the skin from sun damage and environmental pollutants, and conserving moisture.

By removing the layer of dead skin cells many superficial blemishes such as some pigmentation, scars and fine lines are diminished revealing a smoother and brighter new skin. Another advantage of this treatment is that by removing the natural skin barrier it facilitates the absorption of serums and skin care products into the deep layers of the skin.

Please note that only very superficial scars and lines will become softer. Freckles and sun spots may fade but you will need more than one treatment. Melasma is very difficult to treat, specially if caused by hormones, so it is unlikely to be affected.

You need to be aware that the Stratum Corneum protects you from the sun. So after it is removed your skin will be extra sensitive to UV light and if you don't keep away from the sun and use a daily sunscreen you may end up with more pigmentation than what you had to begin with.

How does Microdermabrasion work?

Microdermabrasion uses a machine to blast aluminum oxide crystals onto the skin causing an abrasive action. An attached suction device vacuums the dead skin cells and used crystals at the same time. 

 

This machine has the disadvantage that you breathe in some of these aluminum oxide crystals which may contribute to asthma and other health problems later on.

The crystals can also get in your ears and eyes causing scratches and discomfort. Newer Microdermabrasion machines use a diamond tip instead of the crystals, which is gentler on the skin and has less risk of side effects. If you are thinking of having this procedure done, I would recommend you to find a clinic or salon that uses diamond tip.

Is it painful?

The procedure only lasts 20 to 30 minutes for the face and there is no pain, however you may feel a warming or tingling sensation. After the procedure, your skin may be a bit swollen and red but these symptoms should clear in one or two days, depending on the person.

What are Glycolic Peels?

Glycolic peels work in a similar fashion to Microdermabrasion. However, instead of using a physical abrasion it uses glycolic acid derived from sugar cane to dissolve the stratum corneum. During the procedure you will experience a mild burning sensation and your skin may present erythema (redness) for one or two days.

Would you recommend these treatments?

As a beautician I do not like these treatments because they are too harsh on the skin and tend to damage the water-proofing barriers of the live cells underneath the Stratum Corneum. I instead recommend a peel using Lactic Acid which has been described as a cool peel because it gently exfoliates the top most layer without burning the skin. Lactic Acid also has the advantage that the results are easier to control and there is no danger of overdoing it. The beautician can vary the level of exfoliation by applying one or more layers of lactic acid or leaving it on for longer, depending on the client's skin condition.

Dangers of Microdermabrasion and Glycolic Peels

Microdermabrasion and Glycolic peels should not be done more than once a month because with overuse there is the risk of thinning out of the skin, developing skin sensitivities, breakouts, and pigmentation.

There have been numerous cases of people undergoing these procedures who have reported getting broken capillaries, persistent flushing, pigmentation and even developing Rosacea as a result of the treatments. 

In some cases, it is possible that these side effects may have been caused by sun exposure after the treatment. I can't emphasise enough how important it is to keep out of the sun for at least two days after the procedure and use sunscreen SPF15-30 all the time, even on cloudy days, for at least one month.

Even if you have not undergone any of these treatments, and if you really care about your skin and want to maintain it healthy and avoid premature aging, you must do this for life: Keep out of the sun and use sunscreen everyday.

Contraindications:

Microdermabrasion and glycolic peels are not recommended for people with the following conditions:

• Rosacea
• broken capillaries or vascular problems
• active cold sores
• warts
• eczema, dermatitis or psoriasis
• people on certain medications such as roaccutane or blood thinning drugs
• immune system disorders
• Diabetes

How to choose the best sunscreen

Wearing sunscreen should now be part of our daily routine before we go out. UV rays not only cause skin cancer, they are also responsible for most of the skin damage associated with premature aging.

Having become such an important factor in our lives it is imperative that we know how to choose the best sunscreen for us. There was a time when choosing a sunscreen was all about the SPF (Sun Protection Factor). New research and studies have made it far more complex.

UVB and UVA Rays

There are two types of UV rays: UVB and UVA. Both types of UV rays cause cellular damage and can cause skin cancer.

UVB rays are responsible for you getting a sunburn. SPF refers to this type of UV rays. When choosing a sunscreen make sure it is at least SPF 15. Active ingredients that protect against UVB rays are:

• Para-aminobenzoic Acid (PABA)
• Cinoxate
• Ensulizole
• Homosalate
• Octocrylene
• Octinoxate
• Octisalete
• Padimate O
• Trolamine Salicylate

UVA rays penetrate deep into the skin and cause premature aging such as wrinkles, lax skin and pigmentation. Sunscreens that protect against UVA rays say “Broad Spectrum”. Ingredients that protect against UVA rays are:

• Avobenzone
• Ecamsule (Mexoryl SX)
• Meradimate

Ingredients that offer both UVB and UVA protection are:

• Dioxybenzone
• Oxybenzone
• Sulisobenzone
• Titanium Dioxide
• Zinc Oxide

What SPF should I choose?

The SPF tells us how effective a sunscreen is in preventing sunburn. If you burn in 10 minutes an SPF 15 will protect you for 150 minutes (10x15) or 2 hours and a half, SPF 30 for 300 minutes or 5hours. This doesn't mean that you can be that long without reapplying, remember that rubbing, sweating, swimming, etc. will decrease its effectiveness.

SPF 15 filters out 93% of UVB rays, SPF 30 filters 97% and SPF 50 filters 98%, so the added protection after SPF 15 is not much.

Chemical vs Physical Sunscreens

Sunscreens can be further classified into Chemical or Physical depending on the ingredients they contain. Chemical sunscreens absorb the UV rays converting them into heat energy, while physical ones deflect and scatter the UV rays before they penetrate the skin.

Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide are physical sunscreens. These are the sunscreens that used to leave a white film over our skins. New manufacturing methods now break the molecules into micro-particles that penetrate the skin without leaving a white residue, beware the cheaper sunscreens may still leave you looking ghostly.

Physical sunscreens are better because they are gentler and less likely to cause an allergic reaction. They are better suited for babies and people with skin conditions such as eczema, and Rosacea.

Chemical sunscreens have also the disadvantage that when they absorb the UV rays they break down and produce free radicals. Free radicals can also damage our cells accelerating ageing. So, if you can, choose a sunscreen that contains Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide.

Other factors to consider

When choosing the best sunscreen for you it is important to consider your skin type. Oily skins will benefit for a light formula, water based, rather than cream. Spray on sunscreens may be better for this type of skin. Ensulizole has a lighter consistency that other UVB filters. If you suffer from Acne and you are using Retinol or Roaccutane you should consider that these products make your skin more sensitive to the sun and take extra precautions, such as using a higher SPF, keeping in the shade and wearing a wide brimmed hat and long sleeves.

If your skin is dry, some sunscreens come with added moisturisers which will help maintain your skin balance.

If you have sensitive skin or suffer from eczema or Rosacea avoid sunscreens containing PABA or Oxybenzone as well as fragrances, alcohol and preservatives. The best sunscreens for sensitive skins are those containing Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Trolamine Salicylate or Ecamsule

For babies and children it is also best to use a physical sunscreen because they are less likely to cause any skin reactions. Also, a spray on sunscreen may be easier to apply, just make sure you don’t spray directly onto their face, but rather on your hands and then rub it on the face.

How to use sunscreen correctly

Most of us don't know how to use sunscreen correctly. Here are some tips to make sure you are well protected at all times:

• Apply liberally. Most people don't apply enough or leave patches uncovered and thus don't get the level of protection stated in the package. It is recommended that you wait 10 minutes and reapply to make sure you have achieved the best coverage.
• Make sure you also apply sunscreen to the back of your neck, nose, tip of your ears, back of your legs, and feet.
• Reapply frequently. Sweating, water, rubbing off with clothing and towels, removes some of the sunscreen, so it is important to reapply every two hours.
• Wait at least 20 minutes before going under the sun. Sunscreen takes that long to be absorbed by the skin.
• If you are swimming or exercising you should buy a water resistant sunscreen. Water resistant sunscreens are good for 40-80 minutes in the water, so you need to reapply often.
• Apply sunscreen even if the day is cloudy or overcast. Remember, UV rays are not visible to the naked eye, and on a cloudy day up to 80% of the UV rays can get through.
• Just because the day is cold it doesn't mean you won't get damage from the sun. You may need less sunscreen during the winter months, but if you are having a day out in the sun, you still need to put on sunscreen.
• Sunscreen is not enough:
  • Try to avoid being under the sun between 10am and 4pm.
  • Keep to the shade
  • Wear a wide brimmed hat
  • Wear sunglasses
  • Wear long sleeves, and preferably dark clothes with tight woven fabric.