What's New in Dermal Needling

After attending an Advanced Dermal Needling Masterclass with Needling pioneer and top 10 Plastic Surgeon, Dr Des Fernandes, I'm busting to tell you all about it.

What is Dermal Needling?

 For those of you who don't know, Dermal Needling (also called Skin Needling, Dermal-rolling, Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT), Percutaneous Collagen Induction (PCI), and Mesotherapy), is a treatment involving the use of micro needles to puncture the skin and create microscopic breaks in the blood vessels immediately beneath the surface of the epidermis.

This procedure stimulates the natural regeneration of the skin encouraging the release of the body's own growth factors without damage to the skin.

The results of needling were first observed by Dr Des Fernandes through the cosmetic tattooing of face lift scars. After more than 20 years perfecting the technique it is widely recognised as one of the best rejuvenation treatments, specially for the treatment of scars.

What are the benefits?

• The formation of new collagen and elastin
• Thicker epidermis
• Improves skin appearance, texture and quality
• Diminishes scarring including acne scarring
• Reduces stretch marks
• Reduces skin laxity
• Reverses sun damage
• Helps with vascular conditions
• Diminishes fine lines and wrinkles
• Safe on all skin types and ages
• Short healing phase 2-3 days 
• Improves penetration of serums and 
• It is one of the safest procedures.

Contraindications

• Active skin infections
• Rosacea
• Skin cancers, warts, solar keratosis
• Severe keloid scaring
• Pregnancy
• Untreated diabetes
• Taking certain medication: inti-coagulants, chemotherapy, radiotherapy, corticosteroids, roaccutane
• Botox - allow 10 days
• Fillers - allow 14 days

What's new?

 Skin needling will always offer an improvement of the skin, however after long study Dr Fernandes have been able to prove that for optimal results the treatment should be carried out as per the following guidelines:

• The skin should have been previously prepared with vitamins A and C for a minimum of 3 weeks before the procedure.
• A series of 4-6 treatments, spaced every 4-7 days will offer the best results
• Immediately after each treatment wash the skin and apply a thin layer of a gentle lactic acid cool peel for 4 minutes to sterilize and speed up the healing process
• After removing the peel apply a peptide rich serum to enhance the treatment results. At this moment any products applied to the skin will go right into the deep layers hydrating and firming the skin.
• Follow up with vitamins A & C
• Continue with a daily routine of vitamins A & C rich skin care

The Dangers of Microdermabrasion and Skin Peels

There is nothing more fashionable now days that a Microdermabrasion treatment or a peel because they are quick, cheap and you can see results right away. They leave our skin looking bright and young reducing fine lines and superficial scarring. Both are non-invasive procedures with little downtime. So what can be wrong with that?

What is Microdermabrasion?

Microdermabrasion is a procedure in which the top most layer of the skin, the 'Stratum Corneum', is buffed away. The Stratum Corneum is made of dead skin cells and it acts as a barrier from the elements, protecting the deeper layers of the skin from sun damage and environmental pollutants, and conserving moisture.

By removing the layer of dead skin cells many superficial blemishes such as some pigmentation, scars and fine lines are diminished revealing a smoother and brighter new skin. Another advantage of this treatment is that by removing the natural skin barrier it facilitates the absorption of serums and skin care products into the deep layers of the skin.

Please note that only very superficial scars and lines will become softer. Freckles and sun spots may fade but you will need more than one treatment. Melasma is very difficult to treat, specially if caused by hormones, so it is unlikely to be affected.

You need to be aware that the Stratum Corneum protects you from the sun. So after it is removed your skin will be extra sensitive to UV light and if you don't keep away from the sun and use a daily sunscreen you may end up with more pigmentation than what you had to begin with.

How does Microdermabrasion work?

Microdermabrasion uses a machine to blast aluminum oxide crystals onto the skin causing an abrasive action. An attached suction device vacuums the dead skin cells and used crystals at the same time. 

 

This machine has the disadvantage that you breathe in some of these aluminum oxide crystals which may contribute to asthma and other health problems later on.

The crystals can also get in your ears and eyes causing scratches and discomfort. Newer Microdermabrasion machines use a diamond tip instead of the crystals, which is gentler on the skin and has less risk of side effects. If you are thinking of having this procedure done, I would recommend you to find a clinic or salon that uses diamond tip.

Is it painful?

The procedure only lasts 20 to 30 minutes for the face and there is no pain, however you may feel a warming or tingling sensation. After the procedure, your skin may be a bit swollen and red but these symptoms should clear in one or two days, depending on the person.

What are Glycolic Peels?

Glycolic peels work in a similar fashion to Microdermabrasion. However, instead of using a physical abrasion it uses glycolic acid derived from sugar cane to dissolve the stratum corneum. During the procedure you will experience a mild burning sensation and your skin may present erythema (redness) for one or two days.

Would you recommend these treatments?

As a beautician I do not like these treatments because they are too harsh on the skin and tend to damage the water-proofing barriers of the live cells underneath the Stratum Corneum. I instead recommend a peel using Lactic Acid which has been described as a cool peel because it gently exfoliates the top most layer without burning the skin. Lactic Acid also has the advantage that the results are easier to control and there is no danger of overdoing it. The beautician can vary the level of exfoliation by applying one or more layers of lactic acid or leaving it on for longer, depending on the client's skin condition.

Dangers of Microdermabrasion and Glycolic Peels

Microdermabrasion and Glycolic peels should not be done more than once a month because with overuse there is the risk of thinning out of the skin, developing skin sensitivities, breakouts, and pigmentation.

There have been numerous cases of people undergoing these procedures who have reported getting broken capillaries, persistent flushing, pigmentation and even developing Rosacea as a result of the treatments. 

In some cases, it is possible that these side effects may have been caused by sun exposure after the treatment. I can't emphasise enough how important it is to keep out of the sun for at least two days after the procedure and use sunscreen SPF15-30 all the time, even on cloudy days, for at least one month.

Even if you have not undergone any of these treatments, and if you really care about your skin and want to maintain it healthy and avoid premature aging, you must do this for life: Keep out of the sun and use sunscreen everyday.

Contraindications:

Microdermabrasion and glycolic peels are not recommended for people with the following conditions:

• Rosacea
• broken capillaries or vascular problems
• active cold sores
• warts
• eczema, dermatitis or psoriasis
• people on certain medications such as roaccutane or blood thinning drugs
• immune system disorders
• Diabetes

HS&P MESO Treatment (Skin Needling)

HS&P MESO Treatment is 100% Natural! There is nothing injected into the skin. Allergic reaction and side effects rarely exist. Needles are working in thedermis layer of the skin and bring an immediate reaction from the brain to the skin. Your body produces more and more

collagen to plump the wrinkles, smooth and reduce existing scars.

The objective of HS&P MESO treatment is to stimulate collagen and elastin production and may enhance the penetration and absorption of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin. Therefore, additional age-fighting skin benefits can be achieved when combined with products that contain collagen-boosting and skin-fortifying ingredients like Retinol, Vitamin C and Peptides.

HS&P MESO is suitable for all skin types. Depending on the area of the face being treated, the procedure is said to be well tolerated and in some cases virtually painless, feeling just like a mild prickling sensation. The skin will be pink or red in appearance for a couple of hours following the treatment, much like a mild sunburn. The skin may also feel warm, tight and itchy for a short while. This should normally resolve in 12-48 hours. Side effects or risks are minimal with this type of treatment and typically include minor flaking or dryness of the skin, approximately 3 days after your treatment. After the skin has shed, it will have a healthy glow, feel softer, smoother and look more even in colour.

The benefits of HS&P MESO treatment are:

• Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• Improves skin contouring and skin tightening
• Reduces pore size and improves skin texture
• Reduces the appearance of any kind of scars except keloids or raised scars, red scars and scars that are too fresh after surgery or an accident.

Differences between HS&P MESO and traditional NEEDLE ROLLERS:

• HS&P MESO utilises sterile packed, disposable needles that eliminate the risk of cross contamination and infection.
• HS&P MESO is a patented Rectilinear Motion Stimulation Device and Protocol, which only allows needles to hit the skin at right angle without tearing the skin, hence avoiding the risk of skin damage or scar tissue formation compared to the traditional needle rollers.
• The HS&P MESO device unique “press and go” treatment protocol will prevent scarring and scratching of the skin during the treatment unlike other needling methods.
• The HS&P MESO device is designed with a safety depth controlling perimeter around the needles which will prevent the operator from applying too much pressure which may cause excessive trauma on the skin.
• Compared with the traditional needle rollers, this unique HS&P MESO device has a specially designed Pine Leaf needle shape head for less trauma, less pain, and can easily target delicate skin such as the eye area, or areas that need to be isolated with better results.
• The area can be covered more thoroughly with HS&P MESO than with traditional needle rollers, due to the 12 micro needles and the 83 times per second that the needle cartridge works on the skin. Also the device operates at high speeds which reduces the perception of pain.

At Skin Nexus we use a HS&P Meso Device for our Collagen InductionTherapy (CIT) Treatments, so you can be confident to receive the best and less traumatic rejuvenation therapy.

Skin Rejuvenation - Radio Frequency

Radio Frequency (RF) is a rate of oscillation which corresponds to the frequency of electromagnetic waves (radio waves). It is widely used in medicine and has been used for rejuvenation for over 12 years.

RF energy gets converted to heat when it hits the deep layers of the skin. By heating up the water and protein in our skin RF helps to rebuild the collagen matrix and stimulate elastin production.

Benefits of Radio Frequency treatments:

• Tightens lax skin
• Promotes collagen production
• Improves skin texture
• reduces fine lines
• stimulates blood circulation
• increases skin elasticity

In most cases there is very little or no pain and no downtime and you can return to your daily activities right away.

Some skin tightening can be noticed immediately after treatment with the results improving within the following months as new collagen is produced.

Radio Frequency Devices

There are a few different radio frequency devices:

Monopolar

In monopolar devices the energy runs from the treatment head to a ground pad located on a distant part of the skin. The energy can penetrate up to 20mm deep.

Thermage™ is the best sample of monopolar RF device. Was also the first RF treatment in the market.

Thermage tends to be quite painful and often the skin becomes red and blotches and bruises may appear after treatment. They usually clear within a few days.

Bipolar

Bipolar Radio Frequency devices feature the two poles in the one hand-piece, the energy penetrates between 2mm and 4mm into the skin making it safer to use because it controls the energy between the two poles and confines it to the deep layers of skin.

Multipolar

Multipolar devices combine a different number of bipolar and monopolar systems.

So far, it has not been scientifically established which system offers the best option for skin tightening.

Bipolar RF with IPL

The Elos system combines bipolar radio frequency with intense pulsed light to deliver more effective treatments for a number of skin concerns.

This system can also target pigmentation, broken capillaries and acne scars at the same time that stimulates the collagen production and tightens the skin.

Side Effects of RF

The original protocols use very high energy settings with the area being treated in only one pass. Although very effective, there were many side effects some minor, such as redness and bruises which would clear in a few days; and some mayor such as blistering, burns, and fat atrophy.

Fat atrophy happens when the underlying layers of the skin are overheated causing a depression and giving a sunken appearance.

New treatment protocols use low-energy settings and multiple-pass. These protocols make the treatments extremely safe, with very little or no pain, and no downtime. The only side effect being a mild redness in some cases.

Low energy and multiple passes have proven to be even more effective than the original protocols with 87% of patients noting immediate skin tightening and 92% reporting skin tightening over the following 6 months.

What can I expect when going for a Radio Frequency Treatment?

The procedure will vary depending on the device being used.

For Thermage and monopolar devices a topical anaesthetic cream may be applied to the area to numb it.

You will be fitted with a self adhesive return pad to your stomach or back.

Depending on the energy level to be used a treatment grid ink transfer may be applied to your skin to guide the operator and avoid treating the same area more than once.

On bipolar devices using low-energy, multiple-pass the anaesthetic cream is not necessary, neither is the return pad or the treatment grid.

The therapist will start by cleaning your skin from any makeup and oil.

She will then apply a cooling gel to your skin to help guide the handpiece and make the treatment more comfortable.

She will start treating each area by sliding the headpiece with circular and uplifting motions. You will fill a warm sensation. There is usually no pain, however in sensitive areas where the skin is close to the bone you may experience like the flick of a rubber band.

At the end of the procedure a cooling lotion or masque may be applied.

How many treatments do I need?

For greater results 4 to 6 treatments are usually recommended. Treatments are spaced between 2 and 4 weeks.

The effects of the treatment can be seen right away with the skin continuing to improve during the following months.

Are you looking in the mirror and not liking what you see?

The reflection looking back at you doesn't feel like yourself. You notice fine lines and crow feet around the eyes, uneven skin, maybe even some sagging skin. Unfortunately we all get there one day...Fortunately there are many things you can do to improve your skin and reverse some of the ageing.

There are Botox injections, Dermal fillers, Chemical peels, Microdermabrasion, Radio Frequency, Photo Rejuvenation, Skin needling, Thread lifts, and surgery.

Today I will be talking about Laser and IPL Photo Rejuvenation treatments.

What is Photo Rejuvenation?

Most of the damage to our skin is caused by the sun. Photo rejuvenation uses light frequencies to reverse this damage.

Photo Rejuvenation is a safe, non invasive treatment that treats the affected areas without damaging the surrounding skin. It is non-ablative and there is no downtime, you can return to work or your daily activities right away. There is very little pain and minimal discomfort.

How does IPL Photo Rejuvenation work?

IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) produces a polychromatic, non-coherent light beam. Because of its broad spectrum it is attracted by many different elements in the skin which enhances the therapeutic properties of IPL.

The light penetrates the skin and gets converted into heat energy. The water and proteins in the deep layers of the skin heat up stimulating fibroblasts and encouraging the production of collagen and elastin. The skin fibres recover some of their lost elasticity and tighten the skin, the collagen contracts remodeling the fibres.

The collagen matrix regenerates producing even skin texture and reducing fine lines.

How many Photo Rejuvenation treatments do I need?

A course of  4 to 6 sessions spaced every 2-4 weeks is recommended for best results.

We also have to remember that the sun, pollutants, free radicals and the environment will continue to damage our skin. Once you have gone through a course of Photo Rejuvenation treatments and achieved a satisfactory level of improvement, it is important to maintain it. A good Skin Care regime, the use of daily sunscreen, no smoking, and keeping away from the sun and tanning beds will help to keep your skin looking bright and young. However, despite all your care you may need a maintenance treatment once a year.

Are there any side effects to IPL Photo Rejuvenation?

Some side effects are temporary redness of the skin, scabbing and peeling. These symptoms should disappear within 1-3 days after treatment.

Other possible side effects are hypo and hyper pigmentation. It is important to keep the treated area out of the sun 4 weeks before and after each treatment to avoid hypo or hyper pigmentation. Sunscreen should be worn every day.

Contraindications of Photo Rejuvenation:

• Pregnant women
• Diabetes
• Autoimmune deficiencies 
• Healing deficiencies
• Propensity to keloid scarring